Day 7

Liard Hot Springs Park is locked up tighter than a drum as we drive by. RCMP and, presumably, press and volunteers, are parked at the entrance. We learn later that the bear was old and malnourished, and that the 38-year-old Texas woman was apparntly trying to protect her son/daughter. The older, local man came to their aid and was attacked himself. Somebody was finally able to get a gun and shoot the bear, but not before the woman and man were killed. Not a pleasant subject.

We crossed into the Yukon Territory around noon, and were greeted by the famous "Sign Forest." Over the past 50 years, visitors have dropped off signs (homemade and otherwise) from their hometowns. The signs grown in both number and creativity to the point where the "forest" is almost like a maze. Close to home, I saw signs from Richmond, the Alleghany/Botetourt county line, Vienna, and, of course, DC. Kinda makes me wish we'd brought one of our own.

(Later on, we find that several people have spelled out their names in rocks along the highway shoulders, some going as far as using paint. As much as Americans/Canadians profess to demand their privacy, we all seem to want to leave our mark somewhere in the world.)

The drive to Whitehorse is, of course, very scenic. Just when you think you've seen enough jagged peaks and forest-shrouded valley lakes to last a lifetime, along comes another visual delight. There are some human ones as well, namely the flagwomen working at the construction zones. They're almost worth the 6-day drive themselves.

Just outside Whitehorse, we stopped for a photo op at ___ Canyon. We'd just missed a small private wedding ceremony on the swinging bridge that links both sides The groom, a native artist, told me that he and his bride were both from the area, but hadn't met until both went to Vancouver years ago. "We shared the same friends, the same interests, and she's had my two children (not present), so I figured she's good enough for me." The new Mrs. was dressed in an interesting blue and white gown that we think may be Ukranian style. She also sported an elaborate tatoo on her left arm, but seemed very nice all the same.

The groom had just finished carving their names into the bridge when we arrived. Many other couples had preceeded them. I wonder if they have or will enjoy as much luck as these folks.

If you've ever wanted an economy-sized Seattle, Whitehorse is it. Though small, this lively city is both both rustic and cosmopolitan, with tourists and locals livening the shops and sidewalks with a variety of languages. We didn't spend much time here, but I can imagine that Whitehorse would be a great place if you were young, enjoyed the outdoors, and could truly telecommute from anywhere.

On the other hand, I was quickly reminded that Whitehorse can be a rowdy town as well. I bought some beer at a local bar that looks like it has about 3 fights a night. Interestingly, the police station is nearby, cutting down on travel time. In fact, they were giving some locals a talking-to as we pulled out of the lot. Not sure I want to enhance my travel experience with a barroom brawl.

We left for Carmacks and our campsite for the night around 7:30. Most of the way, we drove in this eerie kind of twilight. We hastily set up camp in the drizzle and fixed supper. Even though it was overcast and getting on to 11:00, you could still see your way around. We really didn't feel tired, but the day's milage soon caught up with us and we settled down for the night.